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Sunday, July 1, 2012

Tutorial---How to Draft and Sew a Peasant Blouse

The peasant blouse or peasant top is very easy to draft and sew. Its pattern draft is based on the basic blouse pattern.

Pattern draft:

Front:

A to B = Blouse length
A to C = Neck depth
A to D = 1/8 bust + 2.5 inches
A to I = Half shoulder
H to I = 1 inch
H to G = Length between shoulder tip and shoulder at neck.
D to E = 1/4 bust + 3/4 inch ease
Draw a vertical line from I which meets DE at point J.
Connect A and E. Mark point N where the line AE meets the neckline.
Mark point K 0.5 inch from J. Shape EKN.
C to L = B to M = 2 inches (for fullness)


Back:

Same as front except for this change: Mark point K 1 inch from J. Shape EKN.

Sleeve:

A to B = 1/8 bust + 2.5 inches
A to C = Neck depth
A to O = Half shoulder
A to D = A to G of the front blouse draft
B to F = 1/4 bust + 3/4 inch ease
Draw a vertical line from O which meets BF at point P.
Connect A and F. Mark point Q where the line AF meets the neckline.
Mark point G where lines OP and AF cross.
G to I = 0.5 inch
G to H = 1 inch
Shape sleeve front armhole FHQ and back armhole FIQ.
D to L = Length of the sleeve from the D. 

K to L = D to J = 2 inches
Join K and J.
L to N = Half sleeve round
Join F and N.
N to M = 0.75 inch
Join L and M with a curved line.


Add seam allowances:

For blouse front and back:

0.25 inch at the armhole.
1 inch at neck.
0.5 inch on the sides.
1 inch at the blouse bottom hemline.

For sleeves:

0.25 inch at the sleeve cap.
0.5 inch on the sides.
1 inch at the sleeve hemline.


Sewing:

Step 1: Arrange the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces.

2. Join the sleeves with the front and back bodices:

With right sides facing, join the sleeves with the front and back bodices.


3. Join the sides:


Step 4. Make casing at the bottom of the sleeves and at the neck and insert elastic into the casing:

How to do this: On one of the sleeves, fold under the hem allowance for casing leaving a 2-inch gap to insert the elastic. Using a safety pin, insert a 0.25-inch-width elastic into the casing through the gap.

The length of the elastic should be 1 or 2 inches lesser than the sleeve round at hem. I have marked the length needed, with a pen (see the photo below).

Feed the elastic through the entire casing, while gripping the safety pin.


When you get to the other end, take off the safety pin and overlap the two ends of the elastic. Sew two rows of stitches to hold the elastic ends in place. Then snip off the excess elastic and close the gap in the casing by folding under and hemming. Repeat this for the other sleeve and the neck. At last, finish all the seams with a method of your choice.

Step 5. Hem the bottom of the blouse and attach trimmings like laces and ribbons (if you prefer):


That's it! Done. Easy, ain't it? Please leave your comments in the comments section under this post. I am waiting to read your comments.

7 comments:

  1. Lovely tutorial Flora! Keep up your good work. Thank you for sharing this.

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  2. I love this kind of pattern for the littlest. Thanks for sharing!!

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  3. Thanks Mahalakshmi and Sardinha for your lovely comments.

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  4. Thanks a lot for your lovely and helpful tutorial.

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